The Role of Metadata

Lightroom Classic’s catalog is simply a database of information about our photos. Learning how to edit and add to that information can help us manage, find, and organize our photos over time. Metadata is information about your photos. Some metadata is created and applied to your photos at the moment the shutter is pressed, which is called EXIF metadata. This includes information like shutter speed, ISO, aperture, capture date/time, and so on. This EXIF metadata is automatically added to the catalog during import. Beyond this EXIF metadata, Lightroom Classic also gives us the ability to add more information about each photo, such as keywords, titles, captions, star ratings, flags, and a host of other data points. The more data we add to the catalog (which is a database after all) the more we can leverage that data in our workflows. The Metadata Panel This information is so important that Lightroom Classic displays it in a variety of ways. The most well known location, and where you can find the most data in one place, is the Metadata panel. Located in the Library and Map modules, the Metadata panel can be set to display the information about a selected photo in a dozen different ways. At the top of the Metadata panel is a drop-down menu that provides access to the different views. We’re probably most familiar with the Default view, which includes the most useful EXIF metadata along with fields for entering information like title, caption, copyright, and more. At the top of this view is File Name field, which is an editable field that can be used to rename the selected photo if needed. Some of the fields are editable, but most are not as it really depends on the type of information. To the right of some fields is a small icon with a right-facing arrow, which when clicked can perform a specific task. Place your cursor over each button to see a tooltip describing what it will do for each data point. For example, the icon associated with the Folder field will switch the view to the folder containing the selected photo, while the icon associated with the Cropped pixel dimensions will open the selected photo in the Crop tool. In cases where the data could be applied to a large number of photos (or even all photos), then you might consider creating a Metadata preset to make it easier to apply that information quickly and consistently. I find that the Copyright, Copyright Status, Creator, Rights Usage Terms, and Copyright info URL fields are good candidates for including in a preset. Here’s how: Step One: Click the Preset drop-down menu at the top of the Metadata panel and choose Edit Presets (or go to Metadata > Edit Metadata Presets). Step Two: In the Edit Metadata Presets dialog box, enter the relevant information for the fields you want to include in the preset. In my case I populated the fields related to copyright and contact information. Step Three: Make sure a checkbox appears next to any field you want to insert your own data for (like the above mentioned fields), and uncheck any blank fields (unless you want to wipe the information contained in the photo’s own metadata for that field). Step Four: Click the Preset drop-down menu at the top and choose Save Current Settings as a New Preset, then give the preset a meaningful name to complete the process. That metadata preset can now be applied as a batch operation to any number of selected photos or you can configure it to be applied as part of the import process. Let’s switch over to the Import dialog to see what metadata can be entered from there. During Import On the Import dialog, whether you are using one of the copy options, move, or add, you will always see the Apply During Import panel. Within this panel you can apply a develop preset, a metadata preset, and keywords. Any of these things can always be applied after import, but choosing to apply them at the moment of import can make the process more efficient. I personally don’t tend to apply a develop preset at this stage, but I do always apply the metadata preset I created that contains my copyright and contact information. Clicking the Metadata drop-down menu will reveal any previously created presets, or you can choose the edit option to create one from here. It is critical to remember that anything you select in this panel will be applied to all photos being imported at the time. This isn’t a problem for my metadata preset, since I created that with all photos in mind. However, if you choose to apply keywords at this stage you need to choose tags that apply equally to all photos being imported. After import, any applied keywords will be displayed in the Keyword List panel and any applied metadata will appear in the Metadata panel. Displaying Metadata It isn’t always desirable or practical to call up the Metadata panel when you want to see a specific bit of data, but thankfully you have options. One of the most convenient ways to display various combinations of metadata is on the thumbnails in Grid view of the Library module. There are three different grid view styles, and all of them can be customized via the View > View Options menu. With the Grid tab active, you can choose which grid view style will be used and what information (if any) will be displayed. The cleanest option is Compact Cells with all options turned off, which simply displays the thumbnail without information. However, even in that mode you can check the Show image info tooltips box in the Options section to activate a small tooltip display of metadata when you hover your cursor over the photo. Checking the Show Grid Extras box opens up the possibility to display a few bits of metadata above and below the thumbnail, and you can configure […]

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Lightroom in 60-Seconds: How Lightroom can tell you which lens you like the most

If you’ve ever wondered which lens is your favorite, go-to lens, there’s an easy way to find out — Lightroom will tell you! Check out the video below: Pretty handy to know, right? Have a good one, everybody. Stay safe indoors and here’s wishing you good health. -Scott P.S. Don’t miss Rob’s Lightroom column here tomorrow! 🙂

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Lightroom Tethering: What “Segmenting” Does (and how it makes your life easier)

PROGRAMMING UPDATE: I’m sharing a great strategy for backing up your photo library and LR catalog – another of our free live Webinars (normally just for Kelbyone members, but we’re opening it to all photographers) today at 11:00 AM ET. Taking your questions, too I hope you are tethering into Lightroom whenever you can — the tethering experience in Lightroom Classic is has been SO MUCH improved in the past year (high-five Adobe) it’s like a whole new world. Seeing your images come in full-screen size as you shoot (like you see in my tethered shoot above), you can really see if the image is tack sharp, and you can really see what’s going on with your lighting, will help you get better shots from the get-go! Today, we’re looking at a feature that not a lot of folks use, because they’re not quite sure what it does, but it’s actually a very simple concept and very helpful, too. It’s the “Segment Photos by Shots” feature in the “Tethered Capture Settings” window, which is an organizational tool you can use during a tethered shoot. It lets you separate each part of your shoot into separate folders within the main folder all your images will be saved into from your tethered shoot. (this will make more sense in just a minute). Let’s say you’re doing a fashion shoot, and you choose “Start Tethered Capture” from Lightroom’s File menu. When the dialog appears (shown above) you give you shoot a name (this names the folder your images will be stored within), in the “Session Name” field. Now turn on the checkbox for “Segment Photos by Shots” right below it. When you do click OK, a dialog pops up (shown above) where you name the first part of this shoot. Let’s say you’re starting your fashion shoot with a shot where a white cap is a key part of that shoot, so you might name this Initial shoot “White Swim Cap” as seen above. That creates a subfolder inside your “Fashion Shoot” Folder just for these shots where your subject is wearing a white hat. When you stop and your subject changes clothes (maybe she’s wearing a black fascinator for this next round, as seen above), you can press Command-Shift-T [PC: Ctrl-Shift-T] to bring up the Shot Name dialog again. Name this part of the shoot, “Sunglasses” and it creates a subfolder named Sunglasses. Each time your subject changes clothes or you change backgrounds or style, you just hit that keyboard shortcut and name this new “session.” TIP: You can also click on “Swim White Cap” in the Tethering Heads Up Display to bring up this renaming window. So, that’s how it will go during your shoot. When you’re done with the shoot, you’ll have that one main folder and inside that folder, you’ll see all the different looks you did already organized into their own separate folders. Hope you found that helpful. Check back tomorrow for Tuesday’s “Lightroom in 60-seconds” video tip. 🙂 Stay safe, stay indoors, and stay healthy everybody. -Scott

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Website Critiques Day

Well, it was earlier this week on “The Grid” (my weekly photography podcast), when we asked our viewers to send a link to their websites for a critique of their layout, design, and usability. We’ve gotten so much great feedback on this that I wanted to share it with you here since we’re all photographers (and we’re all stuck inside). Back to Lightroom stuff on Monday, but until then, I hope you’ll stay safe and healthy, and indoors, and here’s to better days ahead. 🙂 Cheers, -Scott P.S. My book editor Kim Doty is giving away some copies of the eBook edition of my “Natural Light Photography Book” today over on her Facebook page. Here’s the link (and good luck). 🙂

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Customizing Camera Raw Defaults in Lightroom Classic

Forget everything you knew about how to create a custom default setting for your raw photos, and let’s get up to speed on the new system. Once you install the 9.2 update your old custom default settings will not work on newly imported photos or when you click the Reset button. This will not affect previously imported photos (unless you click the Reset button). If you’ve never created a custom default for raw photos, then you won’t notice anything different in this regard, but now you’ll know how to use this feature in the future. Note, this also sets the raw default for the Adobe Camera Raw plug-in (and if you set it there, it becomes the default in Lightroom Classic). What is the Raw Default? When you import raw photos into Lightroom Classic some settings must be applied to the raw data to serve as a starting point for your edits. The un-customized settings are called the Adobe Defaults, which applies the Adobe Color camera profile, zeros out almost all other settings, and applies a baseline configuration of sharpening and noise reduction in the Detail panel. Note, this only affects raw photos, so you won’t see any changes to JPG, PSD, PNG, or TIF files (which do not have any settings at all applied to them by default). There’s nothing wrong with the Adobe Default settings, and there is nothing wrong with keeping them as-is. However, if you find that you always end up applying the same settings to all new raw photos (like lens correction or a specific camera profile or different sharpening settings), then you might benefit from customizing the defaults to include your preferred settings. All this does is give you a new, and customized, starting point for your raw photos. Where is the Raw Default Set? The new system is found under Lightroom Classic > Preferences > Presets (PC: Edit > Preferences > Presets). Here you will find an entirely new panel called Raw Defaults. The old method for customizing default settings has been removed. Within the Raw Defaults panel you have three basic options for the Master control: Adobe Default: The same Adobe defaults as we’ve had in the past. Adobe Color is the default profile, and most settings are zeroed out (with the exception of the sliders in the Detail panel). Camera Settings: The same as Adobe Default except that a profile will be selected to match your in-camera picture style selection (instead of Adobe Color). So, if you set your camera to shoot in B&W (monochrome), choosing Camera Settings would honor that and you will see that a monochrome profile has been applied. Note, unless you shoot with one of the Nikon Z series cameras, it just selects a matching profile and does not change any other settings. Nikon Z series owners may also see other settings in Basic and Detail panels change based on in-camera settings (hopefully we’ll see this extend to other camera makes and models in the future). This is an exciting new development, and I hope we see this idea of Lightroom Classic doing a better job of emulating the in-camera settings continue to evolve. Preset: You choose a Develop preset that will be applied by default to all raw photos from all cameras (or just specific camera models). This will basically take the place of the old custom camera raw default option. You can include anything that you are able to include in a preset. You can also combine this with the Camera Settings option above. Set the Master Default If you only have a single camera or you want all raw photos from all camera models to have the same base default settings, then customizing the Master setting is the first thing to do. In the old system we needed to create a custom default individually for all cameras even if we wanted to apply the same settings, so this is another improvement over the old system. Let’s imagine a few scenarios to help make sense of this. Scenario One: You don’t want to change anything at all. In this case, leave it set to Adobe Default. Scenario Two: You want to experiment with letting Lightroom Classic change the profile for all raw photos based on the in-camera picture style you choose, but leave all other settings the same as Adobe Default. In this case, choose Camera Settings from the Master drop-down menu. Scenario Three: You have a preset that you always apply on import, and you want to make that preset the new default for all raw photos, or you want to create a preset for this purpose and make that preset the raw default. In this case, you would use the Preset option in the Master drop-down menu to navigate to and select the desired preset. Create a Preset Let’s create a preset that simply enables the Auto settings function and leaves everything else at the Adobe Default, but also includes the new Camera Settings function for choosing a profile based on in-camera picture style. This is just an example, so feel free to include only the settings that make sense to your workflow. Step One: Select a raw photo and click the Reset button to ensure it is at the Adobe Default settings with everything zeroed out. Step Two: Go to Develop > New Preset to open the New Develop Preset dialog box. Name this preset Camera Settings Auto (or whatever makes sense to you). Step Three: Click the Group drop-down menu and create a new group called Raw Default Presets (or whatever makes sense to you). Step Four: Click the Check None box, and then only check the boxes for Auto Settings and Process Version. By not checking the box for Treatment & Profile Lightroom Classic uses the previously mentioned Camera Settings function for choosing the profile (and if you are shooting with a Nikon Z series, possibly some additional settings). Then click Create to complete the process. The new preset […]

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Lightroom in 60-Seconds: How to See and Edit Your Adjustment Brush Mask

Here’s a quick way to see if you missed any areas when you were painting, how to fix those areas, and how to see if you accidentally painted over any areas you didn’t want to adjust. Hope you found that helpful. 🙂 Thanks to everybody in Houston who joined me online for my full-day online seminar yesterday. Looking forward to the folks in Los Angeles tomorrow. 🙂 Have a great stay-indoors and stay healthy kinda day! -Scott P.S. If you’re stuck inside (like me) don’t waste this time — you could be learning a bunch of Lightroom skills online. We’ve got TONS of full-length online Lightroom training courses can you take over at

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Don’t Use TIFF. For Anything. Ever.*

On Friday we started a series of free Webcasts (ones that we usually do for KelbyOne Members, we opened them to everyone during this virus crisis), and the first one was on how to prep your images for printing at a photo lab. I did the entire thing in Lightroom Classic since…well…the other Lightroom (cloud) doesn’t do printing at all…so…there’s that. Anyway, I take questions from viewers during the live Webinar and one of them sent us down a bit of a rabbit hole, and surprisingly it was about file formats, and in particular, should they save their files in TIFF format for maximum quality? Here’s the short answer. No. In fact, don’t use TIFF for anything ever really, unless you’re absolutely instructed to by another person who is still hanging on to information that was at one time valid, in a particular situation (you were sending your photos to a graphic designer who was using a design or layout application that at that time only supported TIFF, but of course now they all support .PSD (Photoshop’s native file format) and JPEGs, which are better choices). So, TIFFs were “OK” before the .PSD format because supported by about every application on earth. I know you’ve heard that TIFFs are “lossless” and all that outdated stuff (yes, they’re lossless but so are PSDs). So, in short, don’t shoot in TIFF mode on your camera (Shoot in RAW or JPEG). Don’t save files in TIFF. You can pretty much pretend TIFF doesn’t exist. TIFF files are tremendously large in file size and don’t offer any advantages over saving your files in .PSD format (yes, even Lightroom lets you save your images in .PSD format because it’s a kick-butt format that keeps your original data intact but still gives you a smaller file size). * OK, there is one particular situation, that I doubt most of us will ever encounter, where you have to use TIFF (rare though it may be), and that is if you have a photo that is more than 2-gigabtyes in size, you have to save that as a TIFF. That’s a pretty huge file (I’ve never had one that large myself), but since somebody was going to point it out in the comments because that’s what people do on the Internet, I thought I’d include it). So which file formats do I save in? Mostly JPEG, but otherwise, .PSD (for example, when I’m sending a file from Lightroom to Photoshop for editing, and back — you can read more about that here). Even when I’m sending an image to a photo lab for printing, I sent it as a JPEG. In fact, if you go to Lightroom’s Print Module, and choose to save your layout as a file to send to the lab, it only gives the choice of a JPEG. (see below). You’ll also notice I save my JPEGs out of Lightroom at a Quality setting of 80. I like the quality/file size ratio (the image still looks perfect but the file size is smaller. I work on a laptop and I’m always fighting the fill-size war, but there’s nothing at all wrong with choosing 90 or 100 quality if you like. Hope you found that helpful. 🙂 Follow me on Twitter or Facebook to find out when my next free live Webinar (open to everybody) – I’m doing one later this week – is scheduled. Stay healthy and take care of each other. 🙂 -Scott

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My 10 Favorite Hidden “Reset” Buttons in Lightroom

Here’s one from the vault which was inspired by a question on my Facebook page on Tuesday about how to reset the Crop tool to its original starting place without exiting the tool itself (it’s #10 below). Anyway, lots of helpful stuff here to take us into the weekend, and it’s on all of those hidden reset buttons and shortcuts. Besides the obvious “Reset” button at the bottom of the Right Side panels in Lightroom, there are a number of ways to reset part of your editing, or even all of your edits, and here are ten of my favorites: #1: To reset just the sliders in the middle section of the Basic Panel, double-click directly on the word “Tone” (as seen above right), and all the sliders in just that section reset to zero. #2: To reset both White Balance sliders to zero, double-click directly on “WB” (as seen above right). #3: To reset just the sliders in the bottom section of the Basic Panel, double-click directly on the word “Presence” (as seen above right), and all the sliders in just that section reset to zero. #4: To reset any individual slider to zero, just double-click directly on the nub of the slider itself (as seen above left) and it resets (as seen above right). #5: When using the Adjustment Brush, to reset all the sliders back to zero (I usually do this each time I hit the “New” button to start painting somewhere else), double-click directly on the word “Effects” as seen above right. #6: To reset the Tint color applied to the Adjustment Brush, double-click directly on the word “Color” and it resets the chosen color to “None.” #7: If you choose an effect from the Effect pop-up menu (seen above left), it zeroes out all the other sliders and increases just the amount of the slider you’ve chosen (as seen above right). #8: A shortcut to resetting all the settings for your images, it to right-click within the image and choose Reset from the pop-up menu (in reality this takes two clicks: one to right-click, another to choose Reset, rather than just clicking once on the Reset Button at the bottom of the Right Side panels, but this one is handy to know if you work with the Right Side panels hidden). #9: Another way to reset all your sliders to zero is to click on the Preset (under General Presets) called Zeroed. #10: To reset a Crop to the uncropped image press Option-Shift-Command-R (Win: Alt-Shift-Ctrl-R) and it returns you to the original cropped version. Also, while you have the Crop tool; pressing Command-Option-R (Win: Ctrl-Alt-R) will reset the Crop. OK, that’s a few of my favorites. Stay healthy and wash the heck out of those hands, and here’s wishing you a happy, safe, stay-at-home weekend. 🙂 -Scott

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Issue 59 of Lightroom Magazine Is Now Available!

Issue 59 of Lightroom Magazine is now available for KelbyOne members on the KelbyOne site and on the KelbyOne Mags app for iOS and Android. In this issue, learn what to consider when making the creative choice to convert images to black-and-white; plus, how to turn a basic daylight photo into a fine-art, black-and-white photo in Lightroom Classic; using Silver EFEX Pro to create amazing black-and-white images; customizing Camera Raw defaults in Lightroom Classic; and so much more! Cover image by Ibarionex Perello KelbyOne Pro & Plus members have access to more than 75 back issues of Photoshop User magazine all the way back to January 2012, plus all 59 issues of Lightroom Magazine. Not a Pro member yet? Click here for more information.

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Essential Lightroom Classic Maintenance Tasks

I hope you are healthy and hunkered down where ever you may be. Now that we are all facing a bit more time at home, I thought it might be a good time to do all of those less than glamorous (but still super important) Lightroom Classic chores that are easy to put off. I’m going to link to a few of our past posts that go more in-depth on some of the topics I’ll mention, so be sure to follow those links when you see them. Check The Location of Your Catalog This may seem silly, but you would be surprised at how often I encounter people who don’t know where their catalog is located at all or discover that it is not where they expected. Part of the reason for this is that under normal operation you don’t actually need to know where it is. You just open Lightroom Classic, and it opens the last catalog that was used. The issue is when there is a problem, and then you’re not in your best frame of mind for a search and rescue mission. So, here’s my advice for finding where your catalog is located. Hopefully it is right where you thought. If you find it, and decide you want to rename it to something more useful, here’s how. Set that Catalog As the Default Now that you know or confirmed where your catalog is located, make sure it is set as the default catalog when you open Lightroom Classic. Don’t rely on the “Load most recent catalog” setting that is configured by default. You want to be in charge of this important decision. Utilize the Built-in Catalog Backup Function With your catalog located, possibly renamed, and set as the default, you want to ensure that all of the work you do in Lightroom Classic is also backed up with an integrity check on a regular basis. Sure, you are probably using some sort of full system backup, and I applaud you for that. But there is a good reason to use the built in catalog back up function too, which is that it saves a new copy of your catalog up to that point in time, then compresses it into a zip file to reduce size. Should your working catalog become corrupted or if you suffer a drive failure you’ll have a series of recent catalogs to fall back on. However, a far more likely scenario is that you’ll do some sort of self-inflicted injury on your catalog (like delete a saved book collection, or accidentally remove a folder from the catalog and lose all edits on those photos, or some other own goal), and by having a recent backup copy of your catalog, you can just shrug it off and get the important information from the most recent backup. So, go ahead and set up the automated catalog backup function. Find Any Missing/Offline Photos and Reconnect Them There are some good reasons why you might have offline/missing photos in your catalog, such as the drive they are stored on is disconnected at the moment. In a case like that all you need to do is reconnect the drive, and all is well again. However, there are also situations where photos are considered offline/missing because of actions we took without being aware of the consequences. One of the most common actions we take to cause our photos to become “missing” as far as Lightroom Classic is concerned is when we move, rename, or delete them outside of Lightroom Classic. All Lightroom Classic knows is the complete path, from the volume name (PC: drive letter) to the individual file name (and every folder in between). If we make even the smallest change to that path outside of Lightroom, it results in the affected photos being considered offline or missing. The first thing to note is if you have any drives showing as offline, and if so, plug those in. Give it a moment, and those should automatically reconnect and show up in the Folders panel. Once all drives are connected and you still encounter offline/missing folders or photos, here are the ways to resolve those issues. Master The Folders Panel The Folders panel is not sexy, but it is one of the most important panels in all of Lightroom Classic because it is your direct link from Lightroom Classic to where your photos are stored on your drive. You can use it to move your photos between folders, to add/create new folders, to move your photos between drives, to rename folders, to import photos directly to a given folder, and so much more. So much that I wrote a two-part article on how to get the most out of this lowly panel. Start with the fundamentals of the Folders panel, and then move on to the essential tasks you need to know. While you can use the Folders panel to move photos between drives, I do want to point out another command found in the Folders panel called Update Folder Location, which is my preferred method for moving large amounts of photos between drives. Ok, that should put your Lightroom Classic world in a good place for moving forward, and hopefully you’ll agree it is time well spent. Be well!

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Three Tips to Blur Water

Here Jason shares three tips to blur water in your composition

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The Exposure Triangle – A Primer

When we look at the elements of composition, the three that everyone constantly considers are shutter speed, aperture settings and ISO (or ASA in the old days of film). These three factors make up something called the Exposure Triangle. Readers of…

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The Smart Phone Versus the SLR?

Lately the internet has been teeming with people fixating on the latest iPhone release, and questions are coming through the woodwork asking the same question over and over. Everyone thinks they are coming up with an original question, just because…

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Pano Testing

A while back I was doing some testing of new software for displaying larger panoramas on the blog here and came across a site called Momento360. Has anyone heard of this company before? I bet there are some truly spectacular…

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Finding Clients…

I don’t often use the blog as a venue for talking about photography business, but recently many colleagues have asked me about how I approach things here, in terms of finding sponsors for contests, giveaways, workshops, and all the content…

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5 Tips for Better Pano Photography

With Apple and Android phones, the ability to take panorama photographs has really changed the landscape (if you’ll pardon the pun 🙂 ) for still photography in this genre. You can get some truly stunning results without the need to…

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How to Hold Your Phone Camera

How you hold your camera is so important, yet so many of us take our camera grip for granted, assuming that we will naturally hold it in the most stable way available.  For some, it does come naturally, but for…

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How to Hold Your P&S Camera

After last week’s picture presentation of how to hold your SLR camera got such an incredible response, many people chimed in via email, asking if I could do a piece on how to hold your Point-and-Shoot camera.  While it’s not hugely different,…

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How to Hold your Camera – The SLR

A while back I was up at Maroon Bells in Colorado, anticipating the peak of the fall colors.  The lake there at the base of the Maroon Bells has become quite an idyllic scene for photographers of all levels to…

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In Loving Memory

5/4/2013 was a sad day…after 12 years together, our family dog Maggie had reached a point where her body is just not able to sustain her anymore. Over the last 9 months we have seen her deteriorate slowly. Her Lab…

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