A Day To Honor Our Fallen Soldiers

Today is Memorial Day in the United States, and our offices are closed as we honor and remember those who gave their lives in service to our country. This post is dedicated each year to the memory of David Leimbach, (shown above; the brother of our dear friend and colleague Jeff Leimbach), who died 12 years ago in combat in Afghanistan. Just a humble word of thanks to the dedicated men and women of our armed services and to all those who came before them who laid down their lives to protect the freedoms we enjoy each day. Here’s wishing you all a safe, happy and healthy Memorial Day. -Scott

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Scott’s Lightroom Q&A

PROGRAMMING NOTE: Tonight at 8:00 PM ET I’m doing another of my now legendary live “Book Chats” and everybody’s invited. Tonight’s featured book is “The Flash Book” and I’ll be sharing tips from the book, answering your questions on Flash, we’ve got some cool giveaways, some killer deals on books, and some really stupid stuff I have planned. Go grab a glass of wine – a fresh can of Spray Cheese, and join me tonight at my Facebook page. OK, on to our Lightroom Q&A: Beside my role as Editor/Publisher of Lightroom Magazine, I also write the Lightroom Q&A Column in each issue as well, and today I thought I’d share my Q&A from the current issue (it came out last week; we publish the mag 10 times a year for KelbyOne members). So, here’s my Q&A from the May 2020 issue. Q. I heard there’s a way you can organize your images on Lightroom’s built-in Map, but I don’t see any way to do it. What am I missing? A. Perhaps the coolest thing about Lightroom Classic’s Map module is that you don’t have to do anything if your images have GPS data embedded in them, because Lightroom will automatically add those images to the map. So if your camera has a built-in GPS feature, and you have that feature turned on, it auto-embeds the GPS location data right into your RAW or JPEG file, and then Lightroom does the rest for you. There’s nothing to do to make it happen: it just happens. So, go to the Map module, press Command-F (PC: Ctrl-F) to bring up the Search field, and type in a place where you’ve taken photos, and you’ll see a pin there (or many pins). Click on a pin andit shows the images that were taken at that location. You can toggle through all the images using the little arrow buttons on either side of the preview. That’s all there is to it. You can also manually add images to the map. Simply select a collection in the Collections panel, and then drag the images from the Filmstrip to the location on the map where they were taken. Lightroom will automatically add the GPS information to the metadata of those images. Q. I’m using Lightroom Classic and recently I also started using Lightroom for the cloud. What’s driving me crazy is that some of the keyboard shortcuts aren’t the same. Why would Adobe make them different? A. There’s lots to cover here. First, Lightroom Classic and Lightroom Cloud (as I call it) weren’t designed to be used together. In fact, Adobe recommends choosing one or the other. They’re don’t sync fully with each other and mobile and, well, it just creates some issues that will drive you even crazier. Once we get past that, yes, Adobe did change some of the keyboard shortcuts, and I honestly have no idea why (prank?). If it’s any consolation, as someone who has to teach both versions (though my workflow is based on Classic, and that’s what I use on a day-to-daybasis), it drives me crazy, too. Q. I went on holiday last summer to a country in a different time zone, and I forgot to change the time setting in my camera, so all of the shots have the wrong time that they were taken. Is there a way to fix this? A. You bet. In the Library module, first select all the images that you want to adjust their time, then go under the Metadata menu up top, and choose Edit Capture Time (as shown above). When the Edit Capture Time dialog appears, you can choose from three types of adjustments. With the first option, you can change the capture time to any time and date you want. In your case, you’re probably going to want the second option, which is to shift the capture time by the number of time zones. (The shot on the next page was taken in Hong Kong, which is 12 hours ahead of the Eastern US where I live, so I’d shift it +12 from the pop-up menu on the right.) The final option allows you to change the time to the file’s creation date. Each option shows you a before and after so you can clearly see the time change before you make it. When it looks right to you, click the Change button and you’re set. Note: It warns you in the Edit Capture Time dialog that this change “cannot be undone,” but actually, yes it can! Right there in the Metadata menu is a command called Revert Capture Time to Original (as seen above). So, well, there’s that. Q. I’ve been editing and organizing my images in Lightroom [classic] on my laptop for a while now, and I’d like to combine what I’ve done on my laptop with the rest of my image on my computer at home. Is there an easy way to do this? A. There actually is. First, I’m assuming that all your images are on an external hard drive. If that’s the case, it’s really easy. Just drag your Lightroom catalog folder over onto that external drive; plug that drive into your home computer; fire up Lightroom on your home computer and then go under the File Menu and choose ‘Import from Another Catalog.” Go info that folder you copied over to your external hard drive; find your catalog file (it will have the file extension ‘.lrcat’) and choose to import that. This will bring up another dialog asking you which photos you want to import from that catalog. You want them all, so click Import and now your two catalogs are combined into one, and all your edits are intact. Easy right? Well, we’re not done yet. You moved the catalog, but not the photos, so drag all the folders of images onto your desktop computer (or hopefully onto the external hard drive you have connected to your desktop computer). So now the catalogs are combined […]

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Issue 61 of Lightroom Magazine Is Now Available!

Issue 61 of Lightroom Magazine is now available for KelbyOne members on the KelbyOne site and on the KelbyOne Mags app for iOS and Android. In this issue, explore a set of three new plug-ins that help get your work done faster, removing moiré from images, taking advantage of all the batch-edit functionality in Lightroom Classic, creating a bird photography paradise in your own backyard, and so much more! Cover image by Sean McCormack KelbyOne Pro & Plus members have access to more than 80 back issues of Photoshop User magazine all the way back to January 2012, plus all 61 issues of Lightroom Magazine. Not a Pro member yet? Click here for more information.

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Keeping Your Presets in Sync

I love the Lightroom Classic with Lightroom Cloud workflow, and a key component of this workflow is having the same Develop presets available across all Lightroom applications. While Lightroom Classic and Adobe Camera Raw share the same location for presets locally those same presets are not shared automatically with the Lightroom cloud. At the same time, any preset created or imported into a Lightroom cloud app is automatically kept in sync across all Lightroom cloud apps. Let’s look at how to bridge that gap. Starting in Lightroom Classic I’ll assume that most of you, like me, have all (or most) of your editing presets in Lightroom Classic, and it is those that you want to bring into the cloud. For example, I have multiple groups of custom presets that I’ve either created or installed over the years. What I want to end up with is all of those preset groups, and their presets, available across the Lightroom cloud apps for desktop and mobile. Currently, I only have the default presets showing in the Lightroom cloud. Exporting Preset Groups A recent upgrade to Lightroom Classic gave us the ability to more easily export preset groups in one fell swoop. Here’s how: Step One: Right-click the preset group you want to export, and then click Export Group from the contextual menu. Step Two: Choose where you want the exported preset group to be saved. Choose an easy to find location. The resulting exported file will be compressed into a zip file and given the same name as the preset group. Step Three: Repeat that process for all remaining preset groups that you want to be able to use in the Lightroom cloud. Lightroom Cloud app for Desktop If you have not installed the Lightroom cloud app for desktop, this is actually one of the useful reasons to do so (even if you don’t use it for anything else). You can download it from the Adobe Application manager (assuming you are a current subscriber to either the Creative Cloud Photography plan or the All Apps plan). Once installed, launch the Lightroom app. Then go to File > Import Profiles & Presets. Navigate to where you stored all of the exported presets groups from Lightroom Classic and select the zip files and click Import. This will import all of the preset groups and their respective presets into the Lightroom cloud app, and after a few moments they will appear in the Presets panel. Keeping them Synced Because this is a manual process, if you should add or create new presets in Lightroom Classic, then you will have to go through those same steps to import those same presets into the Lightroom cloud. Likewise, should you add or create presets in the Lightroom cloud app, you will have to do a reverse form of this process. However, there is a caveat. It isn’t currently possible to export an entire preset group from the Lightroom cloud app for desktop the way we can in Lightroom Classic. However, you can export individual presets by right-clicking a preset and choosing Export from the contextual menu. Once the presets are exported, you can import them into Lightroom Classic. Side note, when you import new presets this way they will be added to the User Presets group by default. In that case, you can right-click the newly imported preset and choose Move from the contextual menu to move it to a different preset group and keep things tidy. Odds are that you’ll import new presets into Lightroom Classic more often than not, but I wanted you to be aware of going the other way.

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Get Up To Speed Fast On All The Stuff Adobe Added to Lightroom In The Past 18 Months

It’s a lot more than you’d think (even I was surprised, and there were even a features that snuck by me, which of course I included in the class). Anyway, there’s so much they added, to Classic, Lightroom (cloud), and Mobile that I wanted to cover as much of it as I could to get you up to speed fast. This KelbyOne.com online course was released late last week so I wanted to make sure you knew about it, and had a chance to watch it before Adobe adds even more stuff (it’s a lot of keep up with). Here’s a link to the course. When you see how many things they’ve added, you’ll be impressed (heck, the Texture slider alone was enough for me. I would have paid separately just for that feature). Anyway, if you’ve got some down time this week (about 90 minutes) you could unlock the keys to a lot of cool stuff. Here’s to what could be a very cool week! -Scott

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Backing Up Your Photos: How To Make a Backup Of Your Backup

This is another one I get asked a lot (and it came up numerous times at the Lightroom Conference), and if you caught my session (or if you’ve watch3ed my SLIM [Simplified Lightroom Image Management} system, you know I’m always saying to make sure you have a backup of your main back on a separate external hard drive (ideally in a separate location). So, anyway I thought I’d share how I make a backup of my backup external hard. There are two method’s I’ve used — they both work great. The first and my current method is using the 3rd party software “Carbon Copy Cloner” which is a Mac-only application, but a popular alternative for Windows (it does he same thing) is Acronis True Image, which also offers a cloud-backup option which is nice. (If you need more Windows alternatives, including free options, check out this article). Here’s how it works: STEP ONE: You plug-in both of your external hard drives (in this case, my Photo Backup 1, and Photo Backup 2), and launch Carbon Copy Cloner. A window appears and a bar displaying any available drives appears (seen above). you click on a Source drive (which external hard drive you want to copy), and then click on a Destination (which external drive you want to copy to) (as seen above). Step Two: It’s really clear what’s going to happen; it’s very visual. You can see my Source is Photo Backup 1, and I’m copying any files that have changed since my last backup to Photo Backup 2. Once it’s clear that it’s set up correctly, click the Clone button and it makes an exact duplicate (a clone of your first external hard drive. That’s it. You can set-up a schedule to do all this — it can send you reminder emails, or just automatically backup any time you plug-in your Photo Backup 2. It’s got some nice options, and it’s super easy to use, which I love. The other backup and copy program I’ve used (for many many years now, and it’s never failed me), is SuperDuper. It’s super simple. There’s really only one step. You plug-in your external hard drives, and from the pop-up menus you choose which drive you want to Copy from on the left, and which one you want it to copy to from the pop-up menu on the Right, and you click Copy Now. They kind of over-explain what’s going to happen and sometimes that makes you read and re-read the explanations so you know you’re doing the right thing, but in reality its hard to do the wrong thing as long as those two menus are set correctly (as seen above). So, why did I switch to Carbon Copy Cloner? The single only reason I switched was that so many people asked me questions about Carbon Copy Cloner I felt it would be helpful if I started using it so I could answer those questions. That’s it. They’re both great and do a great job. I hope you found that helpful, and if you only have one backup of your photo library, please take this is that flashing yellow light warning you to do something important quick. 🙂 Have a great weekend, stay healthy, see ya’ll next week. 🙂 -Scott

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The May 2020 Issue of Photoshop User Magazine Is Now Available!

The May 2020 issue of Photoshop User is now live on the KelbyOne site and KelbyOne Mags for iOS and Android. In this issue, learn how to turn your travel architectural photographs into fine art, create colorful double exposure effects, quickly match colors in composites, add punch and contrast to eyes, build a design in Photoshop for the iPad, and so much more! Check out all the latest magazine articles with our Search Articles feature on the website. We hope you enjoy this issue! This issue’s cover image by KelbyOne member Beth Spencer! KelbyOne Pro & Plus members have access to more than 80 back issues of Photoshop User magazine all the way back to January 2012, plus all 60 issues of Lightroom Magazine. Not a Pro or Plus member yet? Click here for more information.

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Exploring the World with the Map Module

I don’t utilize the Map module with all of my photography, but I’m grateful it is there when I have a project that is a good fit. There’s a sweet little river that passes near my home on its way to the sea. As small as it is, it is probably the reason my town exists. Like many New Hampshire towns, mine was originally a mill town and the heart of a mill town is the river from which it drew its power. My favorite spot on this river, the site of a different mill, is just a mile away and I have been taking my son there to explore for the last 10 years or so. I’ve taken a lot of pictures there too. Looking back at those photographs got me thinking about that river, where it originated from, and what else lies along its path. I started thinking that perhaps it would make for a good personal photographic project, and so I did a little research and found its headwaters was only a few towns away, and that it is one of only two New Hampshire rivers designated as a National Wild and Scenic River. Pretty cool. Enter the Map Module I wanted to scout out the river from its origin to the place where it meets the bay, and I thought the Map module would be a useful partner to help me keep track of where I’ve been, and where I still have yet to go. This meant I had two tasks as it relates to the Map module, with one to place existing photos on the map at the right locations, and the second taking new photos and adding them to the map. Over the years I’ve photographed other parts of the river with GPS enabled mobile phones, and DSLRs without GPS capability. Any of the existing photos with GPS coordinates will automatically be placed on the map, and adding the rest is as easy as drag and drop from the Filmstrip to the map. To see the existing photos with GPS coordinates I clicked All Photographs in the Catalog panel so that my Filmstrip was filled with every photo in this catalog. Then I switched to the Map module and did a search for my town in the Location filter above the map. As you can see there are a lot of places, represented by the orange pins, that I have photographed around here over the years. If you are new to the map, it is useful to keep the Map Key visible to help get oriented and learn what each icon means, but you can hide it by going to the View menu and unchecking Show Map Key. On the left of the Map module you’ll find the panels for the Navigator, Saved Locations, and Collections. On the right there is just the Metadata panel, which is the same as we see in the Library module. Setting the Metadata panel to the Location view is the most useful here. I created a Collection Set to contain all of the collections I create for this project, and inside of it I created a regular collection to start to gather all photos taken along the river. I designated this collection as the Target Collection when I created it so that I can select photos and press the B key to add them right to it. When I came to a notable location that had a lot of photos around it I saved it as a Location. Here’s how: STEP ONE: Click the plus symbol at the top of the Saved Locations panel to open the New Location dialog box. STEP TWO: Give the location a meaningful name, add it to a folder of your choosing (or make a new folder), configure how large of a radius you want to include for that location, and decide if you want to mark that location as private to ensure all location metadata is stripped during export. STEP THREE: When you are done, click Create to complete the process. If you hold the CMD key (PC: Ctrl) you can click multiple points to select all photos at all points. I would do this at these locations to easily add all photos to my target collection (select all photos and press B). With all the photos at this location selected I also created a collection specific to that site and added it to my Collection Set for this project. If you only have a single pin at a given location and want to create a collection from the photos at that pin, just control-click (PC: right-click) the pin and choose Create Collection from the contextual menu to create one based on just that pin. As I viewed this location I noticed that some of the pins weren’t quite on the river, even though that was the obvious place they were taken based on the thumbnail. This is easy to correct. If there is just one photo at a pin, you can drag and drop the pin to the place on the map where you think is a better match. If there are multiple photos at a pin, click the pin to select the photos associated with that GPS coordinate, then drag the photos from the Filmstrip to the correct location on the map. I took a few seconds and cleaned up this area. To preview the photos tagged at a given pin, click the pin to see a thumbnail appear above it, then use the left and right arrows in the box that appears to scroll through the photos. That was about the extent of locations along that river that I’d visited to date. My next phase was to hop in the car and head out to the lake where this river began. Luckily for my project this river is only about 50 miles long, so I didn’t have far to go. For this trip I took my mobile phone […]

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Lightroom in 60-Seconds Videos: It’s Double-Déjà vu Tuesday

So….when I was recording my latest round of Lightroom in 60-Seconds I somehow wound up recording two tips that I already did last year, but I thought maybe you might have missed them (wishful thinking?), so I present both today (and a bonus video) in case, ya know, you mighta missed ’em first time around. And this little beauty (below) as well: And if you’ve ever wondered what I would look like a smoking jacket and pipe, then catch the third video (and perhaps most glorious of the bunch) which is a re-broadcast of Saturday’s “Book Chat” where I chat….about my books. It’s better than it sounds, but only slightly. I share a few cool Lightroom tips, and I unveil (for the first time ever) the real process behind how my books are created (it’s weirder than you’d think). Anyway, it’s below (well, I hope it’s below – I did a copy and paste of some code from Facebbook into WordPress, so there’s only a 50/50 chance it worked at all. My Saturday Night Book Chat Rebroadcast (below) Thanks for stopping by today. Here’s wishing you and your family good health, and I hope you can get the vision of me in a smoking jacket and pipe out of your head so you can get on with your life. 🙂 -Scott P.S. 5-points for you if you noticed how ‘green’ the color cast on the actual video thumbnails were versus the same featured image on the home page where I added in some Magenta and yellow to offset that awful green. I changed the white balance in camera going forward so it won’t look so greenish anymore.

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How to Apply An Auto Correction Automatically On Import (and why you might want to in the first place)

This is another one of the questions asked during our Lightroom Conference (which we’ll get to below), and it brought up another question: If you were to create a preset that applied an Auto Adjustment, would it apply the same Auto Adjustment to every image (moving the sliders to the same exact locations for every image), or would it analyze each image separately as it imports them, so each image would be Auto corrected individually, even if they were imported as a group of images? Note: If you’re wincing at the thought of using Auto at all, I will tell you that today it’s vastly better than its ever been. It’s actually now quite useable as a starting place to being your editing, and for some folks, it will look good enough as an ending point, too (just depends on the image and the person editing it). Anyway, thought you’d want to know that Adobe has really worked to improve the Auto Feature big time. Let’s answers both questions: First, how to create an “Auto Preset” which is a bit different than you might think, because normally you would open an image; make all your edits, then save those edits as a preset. If you opened an image; hit the Auto button, and then made a preset, it would apply those same sliders in the same position to every photo, which is not what we want. To create an Auto Settings preset that works, you don’t do anything to your image (leave it untouched), then follow these steps: STEP ONE: As I mentioned – don’t make any edits to your image; leave everything at zero and just head straight over to the Presets panel and choose ‘Create Preset’ as shown here). STEP TWO: When the New Preset window appears (seen above), click the ‘Check None’ button (shown circled above in red) to deselect all the different Settings checkboxes. STEP THREE: Now, in the Auto Settings section up in the top third of this window, turn on the checkbox for Auto Settings (as seen here). Also, you’ll notice that down in the regular Settings section there is still one checkbox checked for ‘Process Version.’ Leave that turned on, so you’re using the most recent Lightroom math behind the scenes. Now click the Create button, and your preset is done. In the next step let’s set it up to apply this preset automatically when you import any images. STEP FOUR: Go to the Presets panel and right-click directly on your Auto Settings preset, and from the pop-up menu that appears, choose Apply on Import (as shown here), and you’re good to go. By the way — after you choose this preset as your ‘Apply on Import’ choice, it adds a + (plus sign) after the preset’s name (as seen above) to let you know that preset has been designated as the Apply on Import preset. (NOTE: If you ever want to turn this feature off, just right-click on it and choose “Apply on Import” again). Now to answer the 2nd part of this question… …which is, will it apply the same settings to each image, or will it analyze each image separately and apply the appropriate Auto Correction for each image? Luckily, it’s “Smart” and will correct each image individually (though it’s amazingly fast at it). Above: I imported six different images at the same time, all very different in tone, subject, etc. and applied the Auto Import preset as they were imported, and I took a capture of each of the images after the Auto Settings feature had been applied, and you can see that each of the image has a very different Auto Correction applied to it. So, yes, it does analyze each image on its own, and applies the correction, even when you import a group of images. Hope you found that helpful. Keep being safe out there — here’s wishing you good health, and a great week ahead. 🙂 -Scott

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Taking a Dose of My Own Medicine

The blog here, as I think pretty much anyone has come to realize, is not really active much lately. It’s not been active due to a number of reasons, and is leaving me at a crossroads regarding what to do:…

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Skin in the Game

Whenever photogs start conversations with me about their gear, their studios, their work, or any other such thing, I get a lot of questions. Once we get the normal fun stuff out of the way (new gear, new shoot locations,…

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Three Tips to Blur Water

Here Jason shares three tips to blur water in your composition

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The Exposure Triangle – A Primer

When we look at the elements of composition, the three that everyone constantly considers are shutter speed, aperture settings and ISO (or ASA in the old days of film). These three factors make up something called the Exposure Triangle. Readers of…

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The Smart Phone Versus the SLR?

Lately the internet has been teeming with people fixating on the latest iPhone release, and questions are coming through the woodwork asking the same question over and over. Everyone thinks they are coming up with an original question, just because…

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Pano Testing

A while back I was doing some testing of new software for displaying larger panoramas on the blog here and came across a site called Momento360. Has anyone heard of this company before? I bet there are some truly spectacular…

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Finding Clients…

I don’t often use the blog as a venue for talking about photography business, but recently many colleagues have asked me about how I approach things here, in terms of finding sponsors for contests, giveaways, workshops, and all the content…

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5 Tips for Better Pano Photography

With Apple and Android phones, the ability to take panorama photographs has really changed the landscape (if you’ll pardon the pun 🙂 ) for still photography in this genre. You can get some truly stunning results without the need to…

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How to Hold Your Phone Camera

How you hold your camera is so important, yet so many of us take our camera grip for granted, assuming that we will naturally hold it in the most stable way available.  For some, it does come naturally, but for…

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How to Hold Your P&S Camera

After last week’s picture presentation of how to hold your SLR camera got such an incredible response, many people chimed in via email, asking if I could do a piece on how to hold your Point-and-Shoot camera.  While it’s not hugely different,…

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